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The heady aroma of burning piñon logs permeates the air every night in Santa Fe, where the altitude-nearly 7,000 feet-ensures that even summer evenings are crisp enough for locals to light up their kiva fireplaces. The smoky scent is a constant presence in this ever-changing city, where thick-walled adobe buildings four centuries old stand cheek-by-jowl with avant-garde art galleries and lively new restaurants. It's a reminder that, despite its vibrant population of skiers and hikers, painters and photographers, alternative healers, hippies, gays and lesbians, and émigrés from seemingly every one of the other 49 states, this city remains strongly connected to its Spanish-Native American heritage-and to the pristine landscape that surrounds it.

  • A stroll through the rose and herb gardens of El Zaguan, a Territorial-style hacienda often bypassed by gallery-hoppers.

  • Peeking inside San Miguel Mission, the nation's oldest church, in use since the early 17th century.

  • Tasting the edible (chocolate) religious art sold at Todos Santios, a Lilliputian candy shop in an 18th-century courtyard.


Ten Thousand Waves

Tucked into a green hillside on the winding mountain

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Queso: Hurrah, Hurrah!

Northern NM’s first proper brick-and-mortar cheese shop to focus on artisan, farmstead produces

By Rob DeWalt

Do a quick web search of “New Mexico cheese shops” and you’ll be lucky to find anything more interesting than a Hickory Farms outlet in Albuquerque. True, venues like Kaune’s Neighborhood Market, La Montañita Co-op and the Santa Fe Farmers Market offer a decent variety of cheeses in town, but they certainly don’t specialize in them.

John Gutierrez, however, does. Co-owner and proprietor of Cheesemongers of santa Fe (130 E Marcy St., 405-642-8782), which is set to open in September in a former downtown office building just a cheddar wedge’s throw from the SFR mother ship, Gutierrez is Le Grand Fromage of fromage—a Dairy King and a passionate one. A Germany-born military brat with close family ties to Taos and Northern New Mexico, Gutierrez takes cheese so seriously that we had to reschedule an interview while he attended the American Cheese Society Conference in Sacramento, Calif., a few weeks ago.

“I studied music and international-trade law in Oklahoma, but I left college about six months before securing a degree,” Gutierrez says. “It was the cheese that got me.” (He also spent time performing search-and-rescue operations with an Oklahoma chapter of the Civil Air Patrol.) A veteran of venerable cheese shops/creameries such as San Francisco’s Say Cheese and the Cowgirl Creamery, Gutierrez also worked with Norman, Okla., cheese mavens Forward Foods, who are his partners in the new Santa Fe outlet. 

“The farmstead-cheesemaking community is a tight-knit group of people,” Gutierrez says, “and a real distinction has to be made between them and large industrial producers. When you drive by large cheese factories, even in this state, you may see a large pipe coming out of the building. That pipe dumps tons of industrial byproducts and who knows what else into the surrounding land and water. We do not, and will not, do business with those entities.”

Major construction began in May on the interior of the Cheesemongers of Santa Fe shop, which boasts about 1,000-square-feet of gorgeous wood-floored display and counter space, a scullery (a small wash area), storage units for keeping cheeses at their proper temperatures and offices. A few of the cheese cases, which, Gutierrez notes with more than a hint of nostalgia, are the original cheese cases from Forward Foods in Oklahoma, will hold between 100 and 150 different varieties of cut-to-order cheese. Up to 50 more selections will be available around the holidays. “We’re aiming for a 50-50 split between domestic and international cheeses,” Gutierrez says, “and we’ll carry some New Mexico cheeses too, like selections from the Old Windmill Dairy in Estancia.”

Gutierrez also plans to carry goats milk cheese produced by kids from Camino de Paz School & Farm in Santa Cruz, located about 20 miles north of Santa Fe. “It’s amazing to see those kids out there on the farm, working the plow horses and learning about the importance of the land,” he says. “There are a lot of kids out there that don’t even know where cheese comes from, and these boys and girls are making and selling it!”

Fromage may be the center of gravity at Cheesemongers of Santa Fe, but other culinary treasures will be available. Gutierrez figures he’s managing about 50 different food accounts that will bring in an array of charcuterie including prosciutto di Parma, jamón Ibérico and salumi; local honeys and jams; fair-trade “bean-to-bark” and local chocolates; local breads from Don Diego Bakery, Sage Bakehouse and Wild Leaven Bakery; antipasti; a carefully curated selection of vinegars and oils; local and international mustards; and pickled and fermented goodies from Santa Fe’s own Barrio Brinery.

“The cheese shop is meant to complement and support other local businesses,” Gutierrez stresses. “The folks at The Beestro right down the street have been incredibly supportive. It’s all about furthering those community relationships in the name of quality, selection and service.” Although that last statement may sound canned, Gutierrez means every word. He and a well-informed staff of four will be available to discuss the cheeses and their sensual intricacies, as well as the passionate people who produce them.

Gutierrez has been working closely with the nearby La Casa Sena wine shop to develop pairings for his offerings, and is already working on a roster of wine/cheese, beer/cheese and liquor/cheese pairing classes that will include the participation of local chefs, distributors and cooking schools. “Hopefully, by next year, we’ll have some sort of pouring license for alcohol,” he says, “but the goal for now is to open up shop and build a customer base.”

That shouldn't be too hard, considering that Cheesemongers’ plans to offer a daily grilled cheese sandwich, cheese plates and a few other takeaway prepared foods. “We’re not even open yet, and I already have a backlog of catering gigs to sort out,” Gutierrez says. And because he doesn’t have enough to do before opening, Gutierrez is also putting the final touches on his BizMix business plan in the hopes of securing a grant for the business. The winners will be announced Aug. 21. 

Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-7 pm
Opening: Early-to-mid Sept. 2014
Web: Facebook.com/cheesemongersSF


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Santa Fe's restaurants, cafes and diners aren't just about fajitas and tacos – though they're pretty good. The city puts on some of the best New Mexican cooking you'll find

by Becca Blond

Compound, Santa Fe
Compound is a longtime local foodie favourite


Recognised by the James Beard Foundation as the "Best Chef of the Southwest", Mark Kiffen, owner of Compound restaurant, on Santa Fe's famed Canyon Road, is a longtime local foodie favourite. Compound does an acclaimed contemporary seasonal menu that draws on the flavours of both the south-west and the Mediterranean. Come when there's reason to celebrate – the wine list includes a few excellent champagnes.
• 635 Canyon Road, +1 505 982 4353, compoundrestaurant.com. Open Mon-Sat noon-2pm (lunch), daily 6pm-to close (dinner), bar opens at 5pm

El Molero fajita truck on the Plaza

Plaza Fajita Truck

If you're on a budget downtown, one of the cheapest and tastiest places to eat lunch is from the licensed stalls on the lawn of the central plaza. The beef fajitas with fresh guacamole is a personal favourite. Tacos and burritos are also offered. Everything costs less than $10.
• Corner of East San Francisco Street and Lincoln Avenue

Maria's New Mexican Kitchen

Maria's restaurant, Santa Fe

One of Robert Redford's favourite spots when visiting Santa Fe, this is also where the locals come for authentic New Mexican cooking and tequila – there are some 300 varieties on offer. The blue corn enchiladas are a house specialty, as are super-strong house margaritas made with 100% blue agave tequila and freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice. Decor is traditional, with white adobe walls and vigas (beams). Reservations are recommended. It's a good spot to bring the kids. Note Maria's is not downtown, but off St Francis Boulevard, about five minutes' drive from the plaza.
• 555 West Cordova Road, +1 505 983 7929, marias-santafe.com. Open daily Mon-Fri 11am-10pm, Sat-Sun noon-10pm

Tia Sophia's

Tia Sophia's, Santa Fe

Come for breakfast, when this Santa Fe institution is usually jammed, and it isn't unusual to see a local artist or visiting celebrity waiting in the crowd. Breakfast burritos and other south-western morning favourites such as huevos rancheros (black beans, eggs, cheese and chilli over a tortilla) are the things to order, though if you show up closer to noon, lunch is pretty dang tasty as well – the perfectly prepared chiles rellenos(stuffed chilli peppers) are a personal favourite. The restaurant is a good place to bring the kids – there is a whole shelf of children's books to delve into and it is noisy enough for them to run around without being noticed.
• 210 West San Francisco Street, +1 505 983 9880, no website. Open Mon-Sat 7am-2pm, Sun 8am-1pm


Tomasita's, Santa Fe

Locals hate to admit it, but they love the New Mexican cooking at this Santa Fe institution as much as the tourists reading about it in the guidebooks do. It serves top-notch green chilli, legendary blue corn enchiladas and daily blue-plate specials at lunch. Save room for dessert – the sopapillas (fried pastries) with honey butter are included with the mains. It's a rowdy joint that's perfect for families with exuberant kids. Prepare to wait as the restaurant is nearly always packed.
• 500 South Guadalupe Street, +1 505 983 5721, no website. Open Mon-Sat 11am-10pm, closed Sun


Cowgirl Hall of Fame, Santa Fe

In the hipster Guadalupe district, the Cowgirl, a New Mexico-meets-Texas BBQ joint, has been a Santa Fe standby for a long time with good reason, known for its excellent food and strong tasty margaritas. It is a fun place for all ages thanks to the great playground, wacky western-style feminist flair, huge patio and live music on the inside stage after 9pm. Cowgirl is most famous for its BBQ brisket – order it in a build-your own quesadilla with green chilli and avocados. The margarita list is long and potent.
• 319 South Guadalupe Street, +1 505 982 2565, cowgirlsantafe.com. Open (for lunch) Mon-Fri 11.30am-4.30pm, Sat-Sun 11am-4.30pm; (for dinner) Mon-Wed 4.30pm-10.30pm, Fri-Sat 4.30pm-11pm, Sun 4.30pm-10.30pm

Second Street Brewery

Second Street Brewery, Santa Fe

The second outpost of Santa Fe's second most famous craft brewery does some of the town's best pub grub in a happening Railyard district with plenty of indoor and outdoor seating. When it comes to eating, the chilli Philly and the crispy buffalo chicken are sandwich winners for carnivores, while the portobello mushroom panini will woo the vegetarians. The food lineup is combined with a good selection of English-style beers, from the excellent hoppy IPA to a denser porter brewed at the original 2nd Street location (also a great pub) on Santa Fe's outskirts.
• 607 Paseo de Peralta 10, +1 505 989 3278, secondstreetbrewery.com. Open Mon-Thurs 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat 11am-11pm, Sun noon-9pm


Gabriel's, Santa Fe

It's worth the 12-mile drive north of Santa Fe to chow on made-at-your-table fresh guacamole at Gabriel's. The scenic patio is perfect for soaking up high-desert mountain views in warmer months, while the beautiful interior is hung with art by Miguel Martinez that looks as good as the food tastes. The ribs here are fabulous, and so are the New Mexican offerings: the homemade corn tortillas and margaritas with freshly squeezed lime juice and gold tequila. It makes a good lunch or dinner choice if you're headed north to Taos, the hot springs at Ojo Caliente or just the popular flea market down the road in Tesuque.
• 4 Banana Lane/Highway 285, +1 505 455 7000,restauranteur.com/gabriels. Open Sun-Thurs 11.30am-9pm, Fri-Sat 11.30-10pm

The Shed

The Shed, Santa Fe

Most famous for its red and green chilli-covered chicken enchiladas, it also does grilled fish tacos equally well – these are also a lighter meal calorie-wise too, making it easier to justify another round of freshly squeezed margaritas. The James Beard Award-winning restaurant is run by the same family that started the casual but atmospheric joint in 1953, in a courtyard just off the main square in an adobe building built in about 1692 . In summer, sit outside on the patio. Reservations are highly recommended.
• 113½ East Palace Avenue, +1 505 982 9030, sfshed.com. Open daily for lunch 11am-2.30pm, and dinner 5.30pm-9pm

La Cantina at Coyote Cafe

La Cantina at Coyote Cafe, Santa Fe

The restaurant downstairs, the Coyote Cafe, is one of the best in Santa Fe, but the secret most people don't know is that if you head to the roof, you can order the same creations by chef Mark Miller at cut prices. And you get a lively alfresco rooftop cantina ambiance with fantastic sunset views. The place is only open during the warmer months, and sometimes you have to wait, but it's well worth the effort. Try the Oaxacan chickenmole, spit-roasted pork tacos with pineapple and the signature mango margarita.
 132 Water Street, +1 505 983 1615, coyotecafe.com. Restaurant open daily 5.30pm-to close; rooftop cantina open daily 11.30am-to close

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Winter Brew 2014

Winter Brew 2014 (Craft Beer & Comfort Food Festival)

January 24, 2014 @ 4:00 pm – 9:00 pm

Santa Fe Farmers Market Pavilion

1607 Paseo De Peralta
Santa Fe,NM 87501
COST: $17 (Ages 21+)

Welcome to the 3rd Annual Winter Brew festival featuring 15 New Mexico craft breweries and comfort food by your favorite brewpub chefs. Tickets are on sale now and include your 6.5oz logo sampling glass, free beer samples and one free pint of your favorite brews. Additional beers and all food can be purchased with cash, some vendors have CC machines and there is an ATM on site if additional funds become necessary.

Breweries include: 2nd Street, Duel, Santa Fe, Bosque, Roosevelt, Tractor, Turtle Mountain, Monks Ale, La Cumbre, Marble, Blue Heron, High Desert, Taos Mesa, Chama River, Nexus and New Mexico’s newest brewery to open Stumbling Steer.

We will have four restaurant chefs cooking up comfort food: Blue Corn Brewery, Second Street, Duel and Bambini Philly Cheese Steaks. We will also feature artisanal products by Old Windmill Dairy, Ranchline All Natural Lamb Jerky and Valley Girlz Pickles.

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Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta

24th Annual
Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta
SEPTEMBER 24 - 28, 2014

The Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta is an annual five-day celebration of food and wine that is just, flat-out, a blast. For the Fiesta, you can purchase individual tickets for chef demonstrations, walking tours, wine seminars, and/or chef luncheons as well as two major events.   In one, the Grand Tasting, about 90 wineries and 75 restaurants come together for a stunning food and wine event at the beautiful Santa Fe Opera.  On the last day of the Fiesta, Gruet Winery sponsors a Golf Classic, where they open 6 of their wines and every three holes is a pairing of one of their wines with food from different restaurants. Of course, all of this happens in the beautiful city of Santa Fe.  You can get more information and purchase tickets here.   

We just love the Grand Tasting.  There is a wide range of food choices, and Southwestern cuisine is well represented.   The quality and international variety of wines poured are also major draws for this event.  If you attend the Grand Tasting, here are some words of advice based on our experience:

  1. First of all, buy your tickets early.  Tickets go on sale in early July, and this event sells out (as do most of the Fiesta events).
  2. Decide early how you want to get to the Opera.  The event has convenient shuttle buses from downtown Santa Fe, if you don’t want to drive.  If, however, you want to drive your own car you must purchase parking passes in advance and those passes sell out before the Grand Tasting event tickets do. 
  3. Get to the event about 30 minutes before it starts.  The advantage of arriving early is that your welcome information includes a map of who is actually at the event (life happens and sometimes expected participants aren’t able to make it) and the map will tell you who is under which tent.   This is also your chance to see what dishes will be served, so you can determine which tables to hit first (or last) depending on your personal tastes. Now fully prepared, you can finalize your strategy before the official start. 
  4. Be prepared for lots and lots of people.  In fact, sometimes the restaurants are so busy handing out food that they forget to tell you what’s on the plate, and they may not have a sign. 
  5. Do not freak out if the first hour feels like a feeding frenzy.   That happens.  By the second hour, things have relaxed and you can enjoy yourself more.  By the third hour, it’s practically a casual party in your backyard and you can easily stroll around (although this is when wineries and restaurants may start running out of wine and food).
  6. Be sure to stay hydrated.   The event planners provide plenty of water to help with this. 

The Grand Tasting is an incredibly fun time and the crowds are remarkably well behaved. Even during the first hour, attendees stand at individual lines at each table instead of one tortuous conga line passing by all the tables slowly. 

As you probably won’t be able to make it through all 90 wineries, here are the ten we suggest you don’t miss (if they are participating again):

Archery Summit (Dayton, Oregon)

Casa Lapostolle (Santa Cruz, Chile)

Clos du Val (Napa, California)

Domaine Chandon (Yountville, California)

Gruet Winery (Albuquerque, New Mexico)

Joseph Drouhin (Beaune, France)

Penfolds Winery (Nuriootpa, Australia)

Rubicon Estate (Rutherford, California)

Steele Wines (Kelseyville, California)

Tablas Creek Vineyard (Paso Robles, California)

And if you aren’t going to make it to all 75 restaurants, here are ten we suggest  you make sure to visit during the first two hours (in case they run out of food):

Cafe Pasqual’s

Coyote Cafe


La Boca

Luminaria at The Loretto

Red Sage

Rio Chama

Tesuque Village Market

The Shed


(one other word of advice:  if you come to Santa Fe, we highly recommend Tecolote Cafe for breakfast)

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How Long in Santa Fe


THE Plaza, the heart of old Santa Fe, hasn't changed much since the Spanish settled here 400 years ago. But surrounding the Plaza is an increasingly cosmopolitan city. Sure, it’s possible to focus entirely just on the historic center, where Native American handicrafts are for sale on every corner.

But the rest of Santa Fe now offers groovy contemporary art spaces, hot Asian restaurants and a park by a pair of trailblazing architects. Accept that Santa Fe isn't just tacos and turquoise anymore, and you’ll find yourself loving the New Mexico capital not for what it was, but what it is.


5 p.m.

For a beautifully curated introduction to Santa Fe, visit the New Mexico History Museum  (113 Lincoln Avenue; 505-476-5200; nmhistorymuseum.org), which opened in 2009 and includes a gripping display about Los Alamos, where the Manhattan Project was conducted in secret during World War II. A large courtyard with ancient walls and shady trees separates the museum from the Palace of the Governors (palaceofthegovernors.org), the Spanish seat of government in the early 1600s and now a small museum of Colonial and Native American history. The two-museum complex is free on Fridays from 5 to 8 p.m.

7 p.m.

You’d have to be crazy to pay for a glass of white wine on Fridays. Canyon Road, which angles up from the center of town, has more than 100 galleries, and there are openings every Friday night. According to canyonroadarts.com, the largest category is contemporary representational (think brightly colored paintings of the desert). Check out Eight Modern (231 Delgado Street; 505-995-0231; eightmodern.net), where you’ll find the geometric scrap-metal constructions of the Santa Fe artist Ted Larsen. The backyard sculpture garden is a great place to marvel at New Mexico’s amazingly clear sky and savor its piñon-infused air before heading to dinner.

9 p.m.

Martín Rios is a hometown boy made good: Born in Mexico and raised in Santa Fe, he apprenticed at the Eldorado Hotel and the Inn of the Anasazi — two local stalwarts — and made a brief appearance on “Iron Chef” before opening his own place, Restaurant Martin(526 Galisteo Street; 505-820-0919; restaurantmartinsantafe.com), in 2009. The main draw is the food — dishes like ahi tuna tartare ($14) and duck breast with smoked bacon polenta and Marcona almonds ($25) offer hints of the Southwest, with a dash of global aspiration. But the homey décor makes you want to stick around even after finishing the bittersweet chocolate truffle cake ($8).


10 a.m.

The Santa Fe Farmers' Market (1607 Paseo de Peralta; 505-983-4098;santafefarmersmarket.com) dates back a half-century, but it stepped up a notch when it moved to a permanent building in 2008. Everything sold here, including dried chilies, yogurt and grass-fed meats, is produced in northern New Mexico. The market is part of a bustling district that includes the new Railyard Park by the architect Frederic Schwartz and the landscape architect Ken Smith, both Manhattanites whose taste is anything but quaint. As you wander around, be on the lookout for the Rail Runner, a gleaming new passenger train scheduled to pull in from Albuquerque at 11:08 a.m.


Santa Fe residents — as you learned roaming the Farmers’ Market — care where their food comes from. No wonder Vinaigrette (709 Don Cubero Alley; 505-820-9205; vinaigretteonline .com) was an immediate hit when it opened in 2008. The brightly colored cafe has a menu based on organic greens grown in the nearby town of Nambé. Choose a base — Caesar, Cobb and Greek are possibilities (around $10) — then add diver scallops or hibiscus-cured duck confit ($7) for a satisfying meal. Wines by the glass start at a very friendly $6.

2 p.m.

Thanks to Santa Fe’s sometimes depressing sprawl, it’s getting harder and harder to find wide-open spaces. But drive (or bike) to the corner of Galisteo Street and West Rodeo Road, where there’s a small parking lot — then begin pedaling due south, in the direction of Lamy (about 12 miles away). What starts as an asphalt path morphs into a dirt bike trail that swerves around a 19th-century rail spur. There are some pretty steep hills, but they’re short, and the momentum from a downhill is usually enough to handle the next uphill. (If only life were like that!) The scenery is always gorgeous, especially in late afternoon, when the sun is low in the sky. Mellow Velo (638 Old Santa Fe Trail; 505-995-8356; mellowvelo.com) rents mountain bikes starting at $35 a day.

7 p.m.

La Boca (72 West Marcy Street; 505-982-3433; labocasf.com) is one of downtown Santa Fe’s most popular new restaurants — thanks to its contemporary tapas, plus larger dishes like cannelloni filled with crab, scallop and Manchego ($11). You’ll find yourself sharing tips on what to order — and even forkfuls of delicious eats — with strangers.

10 p.m.

 Santa Fe isn’t a night-life town, but Milagro 139 (139 West San Francisco Street; 505-995-0139; milagro139.com) is helping to change that. A building that had housed a coffee shop was recently converted to a restaurant that becomes a club on Friday and Saturday nights. There’s no cover, and the drinks, including a house margarita called Beginner’s Luck ($5), are delicious. A recent visit coincided with performances by Rubixzu, a local band that performed a blend of reggae and Latin hip-hop to a diverse crowd, aged 9 to 90. For a trendier vibe, head to Meow Wolf (1800 Second Street; 505-204-4651; meowwolf.com), an alternative art space, or check its Web site for other parties hosted by Meow Wolf artists.


10 a.m.

For a big breakfast and an early start, drive south on Cerrillos Road about 10 miles past the Interstate, until you see a handwritten cardboard sign that reads, “Pine wood stove pellets sold here.” You’ve arrived at the San Marocs' Cafe (3877 State Road 14; 505-471-9298). Dozens of peacocks, turkeys and hens roam the property (which also houses a feed store), providing an Old McDonald-like backdrop for crowd-pleasers like eggs San Marcos, a cheese omelet in a bath of guacamole, beans and salsa ($12).


If you ever thought that item you found at a roadside stand was one of a kind, Jackalope (2820 Cerrillos Road; 505-471-8539; jackalope.com), a sprawling, indoor-outdoor flea market, will disabuse you of that notion. There are hundreds of everything, including punched-copper switch plates and tote bags that depict Michelle Obama smiling on a swing. If you need to shake off the kitsch, head to SITE  Santa Fe (1606 Paseo De Peralta; 505-989-1199;sitesantafe.org), a contemporary art space where the 2010 biennale, focused on moving image technologies in contemporary art, will run from June 20 to Jan. 2, 2011.

1 p.m.

It’s difficult to spend time in Santa Fe without thinking about buying a home (or second home) here. So check out Zocalo (Avenida Rincon; 505-986-0667; zocalosantafe.com), a striking development by the Mexican architect Ricardo Legorreta. He is known for crisp geometry and super-bright colors — a welcome sight in this city of browns and terra cottas. Consider it real estate voyeurism, combined with a crash course in contemporary architecture.


Santa Fe has a tiny airport, which offers nonstop service to and from Dallas and Los Angeles on American Eagle. Most visitors fly into the larger Albuquerque airport, about an hour south. A recent Web search found round-trip fares from Kennedy Airport on Delta, from about $260 for travel in June. Sadly, the Rail Runner doesn’t run to the Albuquerque airport, but there is a free shuttle connecting the rail line to the airport on weekdays.

The Hotel St.Francis  (210 Don Gaspar Avenue; 505-983-5700; hotelstfrancis.com), billed as the oldest hotel in Santa Fe, completed a top-to-bottom renovation in 2009, and it looks spectacular. Doubles from $120.

The El Rey Inn(1862 Cerrillos Road, 505-982-1931; elreyinnsantafe.com) is a retro-chic 1930s-style motel, with nicely furnished rooms and beautifully landscaped grounds to go along with the kitschy Native American-themed architecture. Doubles from $99.

Hilton Santa Fe Golf Resort & Spa (30 Buffalo Thunder Trail; 505-455-5555;buffalothunderresort.com) is part of a new casino complex, about 15 minutes north of town. Doubles from $159. Hilton also built a less-expensive Homewood Suites nearby (10 Buffalo Thunder Trail; 505-455-9100), with doubles from $109.

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